How does coin comparator work

Most excellent! I'll try to get some photos of it up as soon as possible. Pictures to follow! I now have a coin comparitor for the machine, and it is the correct one. I'm not getting 24VAC to the coin comparitor though. I've checked the 24VAC fuse and it's good, and when I remove it the machine doesn't work so I know it's doing something. Can anyone help? You need to fool the machine into thinking the all of the doors are closed if you want to verify that it's supplying the correct power.

Hopefully the light on the comparator should turn on once the machine thinks the door is closed. Where are you at right now? Is the machine just rejecting every coin you put in? Make sure you have a nice, clean sample coin, and adjust the sensitivity of the comparator all the way to "least sensitive", and then turn the dial forward just a tiny bit from there, to make sure that it's going to be liberal in accepting coins.

This machine doesn't have door optics nor does it appear that it ever did. It's just a cherry plunger type switch, and yes, I'm making sure the door is closed when doing these tests. The light on the comparitor never turns on. All coins are rejected. Again, I physically put this comparitor in my S-Plus and I've verified it takes coins just fine. Chris- Can you test the harness that plugs into the comparator with a multimeter to see if you're getting any voltage?

If you're getting some voltage, it might be time to try and figure out if you have the right comparator for a PE. If you're getting no voltage, then I guess it'd be time to trace the wiring. As an aside, if you hold the door switch "closed" and have the comparator removed, does the game give you a credit or register a coin-in if you drop a quarter through the optics? The game does not register a coin through the optics with the door closed.

It's configured for "Optical Coin In". Should I set it for mechanical? There is NO voltage on the pins to the comparitor. Door open OR door closed. What I would like to know is if this 24v is switched by the logic board, and if so, HOW it's switched.

My hunch is that I have a bad solid-state relay or something on the board. I am going to shop around the website a little more to see if there is anything else I need to save on shipping. Yes, I just need the one cable. I was looking to see if they had any Coin-In parts or anything else I could use.

But no luck. Thanks for everyones help. Pic 2. I'm thinking the first one. I have a. Thanks Tim p. Joey, I sent you an email earlier asking a question. I hope you received it.

Okay, I bought the cable and hooked it up and it works great except now I've got a loud humm from the coin comp area when the game is idle. When the game is on play, reels spinning, the humming stops and one they stop and it pays off they start humming again.

It is not a faint humm it is a loud annoying hum Any thoughts? If it is in the Coin reject solenoid is there a way to fix that or should I look for a replacement. If its replacement than anyone out there with a Coin Comp for sale please let me know. Thanks Tim. Okay, I have another dumb question Where is the Coin Reject Solenoid at?

Can someone tell me what it looks like? Looking at stayoutofdabunkers picture above I think I may have answered my own question but I would unhook the 2 pin Gate Solenoid Let me know if that right. DACRepair said:. Click to expand Awesome, new parts came in and they fixed the reel problem. Still no coin comp tho. I have been reading up on how the Coin Mechs Inc.

Comparators work, and there should be power to it at all times, there is a 3rd wire that basically enables and disables the coin comp IE Denies more coins after the max limit has been reached. I have replaced the harness to the door and the power supply, still nothing. I may just run a straight 24v rail over and see what happens, its possible that there is a optocoupler or something thats burnt out causing the 24v rail to not get to the comp. I have read over the guide as to what this error code is related to and the probable fixes, but i completely disassembled the hopper, there are no jams, and the sensor is working i can have it do the 10 coin test just fine, 10 coins every time.

Any ideas? Riptor Well-known member. I have seen alot of the comparitor power supplys bad. Have you checked it out? You can buy rebuilt ones for pretty cheap. Just make sure you get the right one because there are a few different ones.

Any time you loose your battery or do a clear the DBV will need to be turned back on using the set chip. Sorry if someone has already said this, its too late to read through the whole thread You must log in or register to reply here.

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